Women gathered in the ensemble of the “Sveti Ante Cim” society launched a workshop twenty years ago with the aim of preserving tradition and cultural heritage, in order to prevent the old technique of golden embroidery from falling into oblivion. This is just one of many workshops striving to safeguard spiritual and social heritage, the women say.
Next year will mark 20 years since the initiative to preserve the old golden embroidery technique was launched in Mostar. Over the past two decades, the workshops have brought together women of all ages, many of whom have learned the technique and passed it on to younger generations. Šima, one of the course instructors, shared how it all began.
“My sister-in-law is a Carmelite nun, and during a visit I noticed their works. However, they mostly featured crosses and images of the Virgin Mary, and were done quite modestly. I wanted to learn the technique myself, and they showed me how. We also do decoupage, knitting and embroidery, and we make traditional costumes for our cultural and artistic society,” Šima Ivanković, a golden embroidery course instructor, said.
From preparing the pattern, through dotting the fabric with a needle, to the embroidery itself, creating a single piece requires several hours of dedicated work.
“Golden embroidery is a type of embroidery in which golden and silver threads, mostly metallic ones, are intertwined to create an image. On the pattern itself you don’t see much thread or work, but on the right side the image gradually appears as a concrete representation of what has been embroidered,” Kristina Pehar, a golden embroidery course instructor, explained.
Although sacred motifs such as crosses and images of the Virgin Mary initially dominated, over time the participants expanded the technique to include other themes, such as still life and portraits. In addition to framed images, they also create decorative elements for traditional Herzegovinian costumes.
“I’ve been part of the society for three years and I’m currently working on an image of Our Lady of Međugorje. This gathering means a lot to me, and I feel happy whenever I come here,” Ana Džidić, a workshop participant, said.
“At the moment, I’m working on a cross pattern that first needs to be dotted. The entire process consists of tiny dots, which are then connected in a special way known to us in golden embroidery,” Vesela Raić, a workshop participant, explained.
“I’m currently working on embroidery for traditional costumes, our Herzegovinian embroidery. Like Vesela said, I feel comfortable and fulfilled here, and I’ve learned a lot from these women,” Mirjana Marić, a workshop participant, said.
“It’s such beautiful and relaxing work. Many times lunch gets burnt, but the picture has to be finished,” Mara Šunjić, a workshop participant, said with a smile.
Besides the Franciscan nuns from the Mostar convent, these women are the only ones in Herzegovina who continue to preserve the golden embroidery technique, a precious part of the region’s tradition, from being forgotten.
