Members of the Konjuh Tuzla Mountaineering Society, Goran Đulabić and Neven Milošić, as part of a larger expedition, climbed Elbrus in the Caucasus this July, which, at 5,642 meters above sea level, is considered the highest peak in Europe.
Although they are filled with happiness and pride after the successful ascent, they point out that the road to the top was not easy at all. There were moments of fear, exhaustion, questioning and fighting altitude sickness.
“Elbrus is perfect, we climbed it. We are happy. Seven of us managed to complete the ascent, out of a total of 32 people who went on this hike in the same group,” said Goran Đulabić for Fena.
The road through Georgia to the Russian Caucasus
Their journey began in the capital of Georgia, Tbilisi. They continued by bus to Terskol in Russia, and the trip lasted about 12 hours.
The following morning, there was a short transport to the gondola, and then a climb to 3,800 meters above sea level.
“Three transfers and transferring equipment and food for about thirty people from one gondola to another were very stressful. After exiting, we had to find a ratrak, a special motorized vehicle with tracks, which would transfer large bags and supplies to the base camp,” described Đulabić.
They walked another 300 meters in height to the base camp. The camp, he says, was a combination of a container and a wooden shack with two outdoor toilets and a makeshift kitchen.
The first acclimatization brought incredible scenes
The first serious challenge was acclimatization at 4,500 meters above sea level.
“The beauty of the view takes your breath away. God, can it be this beautiful. The peaks below and above us are covered with snow. The sun is burning, it’s beautiful,” said Đulabić.
Returning to the camp was followed by dinner and rest. However, not all members of the expedition experienced the conditions equally.
“Some complained about the accommodation and almost everything around them. The more experienced among us just smiled and said that this was heaven on earth compared to the serious climbs where people stay in tents,” he said.
Altitude, fatigue and first doubts
The next day, an acclimatization climb to 5,100 meters above sea level followed.
“People were already showing signs of altitude sickness and reactions to diamox, a drug used to treat altitude sickness. I was exhausted, I couldn’t wait to crawl into the bag. I was completely exhausted,” said Đulabić.
He was happy to hear that the final climb would not be on the same day. The weather had deteriorated – a storm, rain and strong winds postponed the ascent attempt.
Most of the team decided to use a snowcat up to 5,100 meters, and then continue on foot. Ten members, including Đulabić and Milošić, decided to overcome the entire route on foot.
The night before the climb: Fighting fears
Ahead of the final climb, Đulabić was overwhelmed by numerous thoughts and fears.
“Chaos in my head. Mild panic attack. Night. Questioning everything. Sore throat. I’m cold, I’m freezing. What will I wear on the climb, what if I can’t walk, what if I fall and get hurt,” he described.
During the night, he tried to rest, but his sleep was interrupted by breathing problems and the feeling of cold.
“It gets dark. I get up. I breathe, I lose my breath, I fall asleep… and so on,” he recalled.
Twelve hours to the summit of Elbrus
The day of the climb began with preparations and checking equipment. The snow was falling lightly, and the wind was blowing at a speed of about 40 kilometers per hour.
“Definitely, for me, the hardest climb ever. The wind met us right at the camp and didn’t stop blowing for 17 hours,” said Đulabić.
The first few hours were bearable.
“We keep quiet and conserve energy. There is no fatigue, but altitude sickness lurks at every step. Three quick steps and you will be out of breath for the next few minutes.”
As they approached the higher ground, the conditions became more difficult. The wind carried dry snow that hit their faces, forcing them to use goggles and face shields.
The last 150 meters were the hardest
At 5,100 meters above sea level, Đulabić felt the strong impact of the altitude.
“I could barely walk uphill. We were catching up with the team that came by snowmobile, but the wind wouldn’t stop blowing,” he said.
The last 150 meters to the very top were especially difficult.
“Two or three steps, then we stop. We breathe, we try to walk, but the difference in altitude completely exhausts us.”
With the help of a fixed rope, he crossed the snow-covered slopes, stopping every few steps to regain strength.
“Finally, I’m on the plateau right in front of the very top. I can see the peak, but my steps are like lead. Neven is waiting for me. I wish I could have told him to go on and not wait for me, but I didn’t have the strength,” he described the emotional moments.
“I’ve climbed the highest peak in Europe”
After 12 hours of climbing, they reached their goal.
“The summit. I wasn’t even looking forward to it because I was so tired. The flag, taking pictures, the wind. I just wanted to descend somewhere where there was no wind,” said Đulabić.
During the entire climb, he only ate half of an energy bar and drank some tea and electrolytes from a thermos.
“I don’t feel hungry or thirsty. We’re going down. I’ve climbed the highest peak in Europe. Elbrus is perfect, we’ve climbed. I just need to descend and get out of the wind,” he said after his return.
The Konjuh Tuzla Mountaineering Association congratulated Goran Đulabić and Neven Milošić on their great success, emphasizing that their feat is one of the most beautiful congratulations on the occasion of the 75th anniversary of the association.
