[wzslider]The little town of Kraljeva Sutjeska, tucked in the foothills between Kakanj and Vareš municipalities, is an exceptionally important historical place for Bosnia and Herzegovina. Unfortunately, it is not treated as such by many. It was the seat of the medieval Bosnian kingdom and home to Queen Katarina before it fell to the invading Ottomans. Although it has lost its political significance, it is very much the cradle of the original Bosnian state. Luckily there is more to see than just ruins. Some of its medieval character has been preserved in places like Bobovac and the grounds of the monastery. Its character is alive in well in the hearts and minds the village’s inhabitants, where the older women still wear traditional attire and the whole village attends church together on Sunday. If you haven’t been to Kraljeva Sutjeska, I suggest you make the trip.
Arriving in Kraljeva Sutjeska you may feel as if time has stopped. The dirty streams and dust-covered roofs from the villages around Kakanj’s cement industry fall out sight as one nears this quaint, medieval settlement. Homes and gardens are well kept. Any reflection off the water is caused by white stones – not the more commonly discarded tin can. Many of the women, particularly the elders, continue to adhere to the traditional attire dress code in honor of the only Bosnian Queen Katarina. Since the Middle Ages the center of life in this tiny town has been the Franciscan Church. Once the royal residence of two Bosnian kings, Tomaš and Tvrtko, and the beloved Katarina of the Kotromanić dynasty, Kraljeva Sutjeska’s importance to Bosnia and herzegovina’s cultural heritage should not be overlooked.
Most locals are small-scale farmers. The ancient crafts of carpentry and leather making, however rare, can still be found there. Until the war of the early 1990s, Kraljeva Sutjeska was a bustling village of 12,000. It was a predominantly Croatian Catholic town with a smaller Bošnjak population. Unfortunately, the demographic composition of this precious town has drastically changed. It is home to just over 2,000 inhabitants, all of whom struggle to make ends meet. This fact, though, has not detracted from its charm.
It’s always a good idea, in small towns like these, to start at the Tourist Information Center … if they have one. Kraljeva Sutjeska does. It’s on the left hand side of the only road leading into town. They are very helpful and friendly and can arrange a guide if you wish. The tourism information center also doubles as a handicraft shop selling the wares made by the women of Kraljeva Sutjeska. The tourist agency Katarina is just a few doors before you reach the tourism center. It is the most active and reliable source of services regarding Kraljeva Sutjeska. They can arrange guides, B&B accommodation, and home-cooked meals from Katarina herself (no, not the queen but someone named after her).
The village is small enough to have a wander on your own. The few streets are tiny and at times a tad sleepy, but very pleasant nonetheless. The main things to see, however, are advisable to do with a guide. These include the Franciscan Monastery, the old Dusper House,and the Mehmed Fatih II mosque. Bobovac, the medieval citadel tucked in the hills of the next valley, can be reached by car or by foot. It is not easy to find but the road is marked well enough to try it on your own. Beware of the gravel roads and one-way traffic on certain mountain curves.
Getting there by car
The best way to access Kraljeva Sutjeska is from the new M17 highway at the Kakanj exit. Once in Kakanj, there will be road signs to Kraljeva Sutjeska. It is a 12-kilometer drive that takes about a half an hour. Taxis from Kakanj to Kraljeva Sutjeska cost 10KM.
Tourist Information Office 7 KraljiceKatarine. 032 552 160.www.kraljeva-sutjeska.com.kontakt@visit-ks.info. Summer 8am-4pm everyday.
Travel Agency Katarina KraljiceKatarine; 032 779 091.www.turist-katarina.vze.com. agencijakatarina@yahoo.com. 9am-5pm Monday-Friday.
