[wzslider autoplay=”true”]Since the fall of Yugoslavia, the new Bosnia and Herzegovina is sovereign. As so often in history, the country faced a long and bloody struggle for its independence. For several generations, the capital Sarajevo was the term for the last war on European ground. Many people today still associate “Sarajevo” with destruction, violence, crime, and poverty. And of course as a result, I was also strongly advised before my trip to be careful. But one thing was clear from the time I arrived: image and reality – once again – did not coincide.
Alongside the countless buildings riddled with bullet holes, some patterns on the road catch my eye as I walk through the city. People tell me that these are the places where mortar shells hit the streets. Many of these holes were filled back up with red resin. Today, these so-called “Sarajevo roses” are memorials.
Two of the most devastating bombings by the Serbians took place in the central Markale marketplace. Everyone I spoke with about it can tell me something because they knew at least one person who suffered from it. Everyone killed were civilians. I imagine that it was a day like today. I feel sick.
It is hard to believe that ethnic cleansing, concentration camps, and other atrocities could have happened again just 700 km from Munich and around 500 km from Rome and Vienna – only just 20 years ago. As the scars of this time are slow to heal, Sarajevo’s inhabitants also wonder until today: How did the world look on for so long without helping?
Today, however, the city seems to be slowly blossoming again. And in my eyes, it has a lot of potential for that, too. Its rich history and many different influences make the city not only a melting pot of cultures, but also a place full of options.
“JERUSALEM OF EUROPE”
Before the war, numerous religions lived and thrived literally side-by-side: Muslims, Orthodox Christians, Catholics, Jews. Today the muezzins’ call to prayer still echoes the sound of church bells and you can feel why Sarajevo’s nickname was once “Jerusalem of Europe.” The predominant religion today may be Islam and there may only be one active synagogue left, but you can still see the city as it once was: diverse.
Start in the eastern part of the city: Here lies Baščaršija, the old Ottomon marketplace from the 15th century, which with its narrow streets and many small shops and stands resembles a bazaar. Only a few minutes’ walk to the west is Ferhadija Street, where you can immediately recognize the 19th-century Austrian occupation by the Habsburg Neoclassical architecture. The Romans, too, have made an impact on Sarajevo. Moreover, on Velika Avlija Street, you can find the Jewish Museum, housed within Bosnia’s oldest synagogue. And of course you can see the concrete blocks of the 20th century in Sarajevo. The fact of the matter is, however, that in fewer than ten minutes, you can figuratively traverse continents and centuries here in the city.
The capital of Bosnia and Herzegovina presents itself today as a modern, lively university town with an unbelievable cultural scene among which the multitude of international renowned festivals stands out. Sarajevo is not a large tourist destination and is therefore a hidden treasure in Europe. But it won’t stay that way, I’m sure. The first artists and start-ups are already moving to the city, made possible by affordable prices and all-around creative freedom. And what should I say – my heart, too, was quickly won over by Sarajevo and its optimistic people, its beautiful location, its possibilities and its absolute uniqueness in Europe and in the world. This is the city of a new generation.
(Written by Chris Dabiri, www.thetravelstories.com)
