By Annemarie Majlund
Few probably think of Grbavica as the place to go if they really want to discover Sarajevo.
But the neighbourhood that has given name to Jasmila Zbanić’s internationally famous film Grbavica (2006) is one of Sarajevo’s most undiscovered treasures, especially for those who spend more than just one or two days in the city. Only the Dutch (whose Embassy is located in the area red.) seem to have realised the advantages of this ‘city in the city’ but even for those only staying for a few days in Sarajevo, Grbavica is worth visiting. It has everything: Lovely cafés, restaurants, green spots with benches, an outdoor as well as an indoor market and then it is located right next to Vilsonovo Šetalište, the most beautiful promenade of Sarajevo with its tall tree alley and pedestrian track running along the Miljacka.
Most of all however, the neighbourhood has a curious, inviting atmosphere. Somehow as if it thinks itself alone in the world, with nothing around, excluded from the hassle of the capital’s busy traffic and noise, but curious to know more, happy to take in new influences whenever the outside world knocks on its doors. This is Grbavica. And everyone not yet acquainted with this for tourists hidden spot in Sarajevo seriously miss out on something – if not just a chance to relax in an environment free from the ‘look and be looked at’-show at times taking place elsewhere in the city (no place mentioned, no place forgotten!) So, before falling too much in love with the beautiful and cosy streets of Baščaršija, remember to leave more than just a loving thought for at least these spots in Grbavica: Go visit.
Milk Man
A seemingly ordinary small café between the for the neighbourhood characteristic tall concrete buildings. There’s music in the loudspeakers, but not too loud, and very much for the well being of guests: no turbo folk – even Leonard Cohen has found his way here among international and local artists. Here’s room for bigger groups coming for lunch or dinner, too for sitting for hours over coffee with friends. The best however is that no one lifts an eyebrow if you feel like sitting with your laptop enjoying but a cappuccino. With its friendly staff, the place is a great place to start a day of discovering the neighbourhood.
The Grbavica Market
Largely unknown to Sarajevo newcomers the outdoor market at Grbavica is an orgy for fruit and vegetable aficionados and it is a pleasure to wander peacefully among the rows of cherries and strawberries. Probably due to its famous ‘sister’ at the Markale market in the city centre, the spot is not overrun, which, translated into good tourist language, means not overpriced. People are nice and friendly and happy to talk. You may even be offered a taste of home grown strawberries with sugar, but be prepared: by the same token you may have another friendly but less healthy offer in the form of a Drina cigarette. Not to be refused of course. Apart from veggies and fruties, an array of traditional local products are also to be found including home made tea and rakija just to mention a few. And this is only the outdoor market. At the covered bazar just next to, the smell of smoked meat and various local cheeses is hard to resist for those who fancy non vegetarian local fine food. At the nearby pekara visitors from Northern Europe will be happy to realise that dark rye bread is on offer – home baked! – as is a range of other wholegrain buns and breads.
Up and down Vilsonovo….
…..is the best! In the early morning, at noon, afternoon, evening and at night the Šetalište is ideal for strolling after a lunch or dinner at one of the areas many restaurants. At the moment a coffee bar is under ‘construction’ (the lack of one obviously cannot be be justified in Sarajevo) but actually the promenade is worth while in any case. Benches along the allee make sure that there’s plenty of opportunities for taking a rest and in nice weather the Šetalište is an even better place to spend a lunch or coffee break than any other place in town.
